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Vintage Grill Room Four Seasons

New York Times Four Seasons Restaurant New York
FOOD NEWS: August 1959

DINING IN ELEGANT MANNER
Four Seasons Termed Spectacular Both in Décor and Menu

by Craig Claiborne

There has never been a restaurant better keyed to the tempo of Manhattan than the Four Seasons, which opened recently at 99 East Fifty-Second Street.

Both in décor and in menu, it is spectacular, modern, and audacious. It is expensive and opulent, and it's perhaps the most exciting restaurant to open in New York within the last two decades. On the whole, the cuisine is not exquisite in the sense that la grande cuisine francaise at its superlative best is exquisite.

One of the most credible features of this new restaurant is the table service. In a city where waiters are noted for an Olympic detachment, it a revelation to find a corps with the pride and enthusiasm that their occupation demands. Judged on the basis of recent visits, there is probably no dining establishment in New York where training for table service is more thorough. continued

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